East End Oenophile: 2005 Reds Trickle Onto Shelves - Low Summer 2007

By Lenn Thompson

Until recently, the only wines we've had to assess of the much-bally-hooed 2005 vintage have been whites. Disappointingly, many of those wines proffer inconsistent acidity and balance. Perhaps some local winemakers just weren't sure what to do with all that ripeness.

Most local wineries won't release their 2005 reds until 2009 or later, but a few are trickling out into the marketplace - offering a taste of what's to come.

Corey Creek's 2005 Cabernet Franc ($30) offers delicious cherry-red berry flavors accented by subtle herbal notes, earth and a wisp of smoke. Raphael's 2005 Cabernet Franc - a steal at $18 - is made without oak barrels, which puts the focus on that ripe fruit. It's dominated by concentrated cherry, floral and spice notes.

Two merlots from Bedell Cellars - a regular ($25) and a reserve ($40) - are still very young and will profit greatly from more bottle aging, but the intensity of the 2005 vintage is on display in the form of rich, mouth-filling flavors and structures. This reserve in particular may prove in time to be one of the best merlots in the brief history of Long Island wine.